In waves

With great finesse and modesty, AJ Dungo immortalizes the moments of thanks to his relationship with Kristen. The lightness and emotion of the first encounters, the violence of the fight against illness, the nobility of youth woman who fights calmly. He also mentions their shared passion for the surfing, the ocean. And very rightly avoids the pitfall of pathos by interspersing in his personal story, a short summary of the history of surfing.